Once, someone asked me what my ancestry was. When I told him I was Spanish, he turned to me and said, “Spanish isn’t a country.” Besides showing me that he was completely ignorant, it reminded me that Spain is virtually forgotten when many people think of anything being Spanish. As a person of Spanish descent I have to laugh sometimes when someone considers tacos to be a Spanish food. Tacos are Mexican and in Spain a tortilla is an omlette, not a corn shell. Don’t get me wrong, South and Central American food is fabulous and most of all unique, as is food from Spain. Luckily for us, we have a small assortment of restaurants in the Boston area that honor this often-neglected country. And once you taste what they have to offer it will be difficult to put Spain out of mind.
Probably the most famous kind of Spanish cuisine are tapas. Thought to originate in Southern Spain, in the region of Andalusia over a century ago, they were served as compliments to wine. The word “tapas” literally means “lids.” The plates were served as a cover for the glasses. Often, these small plates would offer cheeses, meats, or bread. As this practice grew in popularity the plates became more sophisticated, boasting not only creativity but the best of regional fare, making every tapa unique to its locale. Thus, there are thousands of different kinds of tapas. So, for a person who likes variety when it comes to eating, a tapas bar is the way to go.
One such tapas restaurant in the Boston area is Tapeo on Newbury Street. Tapeo opened ten years ago as the sister restaurant of the famed Dali in Somerville. Smaller than its predecessor, Tapeo is both quaint and intimate. Spanish tile work adorns the walls, along with vintage travel posters and various tchotchkes of Spanish origin. The sound of Flamenco guitar echoes throughout the restaurant, making it an environment of both festivity and relaxation. This one can see when browsing the many faces that crowd in to Tapeo. The noise level can get very high but the environment always remains easy going. Tapeo offers over forty different kinds of tapas, hot and cold, along with seasonal tapas specials and entrées for those who don’t feel like sharing. If I haven’t mentioned it before, sharing is what tapas are all about. You get a variety of different little plates and pass them around. So, if you really like a specific one, you should probably order two. Chances are you’re only going to get a couple bites. Besides having an astonishing amount of tapas, Tapeo boasts a large and comprehensive wine list, featuring (of course) Spanish wines, cavas (sparkling wine), and sherries. They also have an excellent Sangria. However, if you really want to have fun get the cava. It comes in a special decanter known as a “porron.” What you do is drink it right out of the porron, tilting it away from your mouth as far as you can so a long stream of cava shoots streight into your mouth. Not only does it get you in the mood for a good time (to say the least) but it’s hysterical to see someone pour cava all over their face.
I won’t lie, I’ve been to Tapeo more times than I can remember and have tried almost everything on the menu. There is something there for almost every kind of taste bud, but I have my favorites. Probably the most popular tapa at Tapeo is the Gambas al Ajillo (garlic shrimp). The shrimps come sizzling (and when I say sizzling, I mean step back lest you get shot in the eye with hot olive oil) swimming in oil in a ceramic bowl with large pieces of garlic and sliced chili peppers. Slightly spicy, greasy, and extremely garlicky the shrimps are very tasty, especially if one enjoys them on Tapeo’s homemade bread. Among my favorites is the Trucha al Vino (trout with red wine). It’s a small serving of trout served in a thick sauce of red wine, that hints at the flavor of cinnamon. I, also, enjoy the Coneja Escabechado (Braised Rabbit). This might make some cringe because it’s rabbit. If you can get past that, the coneja is excellent, the meat being very tender and the sau ce rich with the flavors of wine, juniper berries, and cumin. The Vieras al Azafran (scallops with saffron) is also on my top ten list of Tapeo’s tapas. The scallops are large and succulent, served in a creamy saffron sauce. I could go on and on about my favorite tapas, but I won’t bore you. My least favorite is the filloa de vegetales. It’s supposed to be a vegetarian crepe in a creamy tomato and pepper sauce, but every time I’ve tried it, it looks like I’ts been nuked beyond repair and is very bland. If you’re a vegetarian opt instead for the patatas bravas (baby potatoes in a piquante ali-oli) or bunuelos de verdura (cauliflower/broccoli/cheese puffs). The entrées at Tapeo are delicious and I haven’t had one that’s disappointed me. They’re all traditional Spanish dishes (no fusion here). However, if you like a little pizzaz go for the Pescado a la Sal (Fish of Salt). It’s a large whole white fish, baked in a thick shell of coarse sea salt. The salt acts as a cooking agent that retains all the juice in the fish, making it very flaky and moist. The wait person will bring the fish to your table still packed in the salt, and proceed to reveal it and take out all the bones with one deft maneuver. Very cool.
The desserts at Tapeo are all very good, but being a bit of a stickler for tradition in this area I always opt for the Flan (Spanish Custard). Sweet and rich it goes perfectly with an after-dinner espresso.
Tapeo offers delicious cuisine at affordable prices. Tapas range from $4-$8, so you don’t necessarily need to break the bank, unless you’re really hungry. It’s bodega-esque environment is carefree, yet offers a sense of Mediterranean romance. The wait staff is very obliging, bringing tapas back and forth takes a lot of attention and good timing. However, it can get very busy and I would suggest going on a weeknight as you can wait for over an hour to eat at Tapeo on the weekend. They have a large patio area, which also makes Tapeo a great place to spend a tranquil summer night. Let the cava flow and the flavors of Spain seduce you. Viva la comida.