Sometimes I find that, in the darkest hour of the crushing bleakness that is our New England winter, the only thing that keeps me going is those small reminders of summer. Maybe I’ll turn my thermostat up to ninety, sit around in a tank-top and play Bongo Jerry’s “In the Summertime,” or, as was the case just the other night, I’ll get down to eating some barbecue. And, honestly, there’s no better place to go in the Boston area than Redbones for barbeque. Go ahead, try me, you’ll see they kick ass.

Redbones is located in Somerville’s Davis Square. But I got to tell you right now, it’s not going to be a relaxing dining experience. The lights are bright, the seating is tight, and the noise level can be deafening. However, the atmosphere lends itself to be laid back and fun. Rock and Roll memorabilia and cycling paraphernalia decks the walls (Redbones is the state headquarters for the New England Mountain Biking Association, and they also offer bike valet!). The kitchen is exposed to view and one can see the racks of ribs sizzling on the grill in juicy, colon blocking glory.

Redbones is the type of place that would make the Surgeon General wretch and that is just what makes it so great: its fearless, “anything goes” cuisine. Redbones offers down home Southern food. The menu is extensive, with Southern fare from hushpuppies to succotash. They also have 24 different microbrews on tap and the variety of beer hails from interesting Northwest breweries such as Dogfish Head and Sierra Nevada.

I got myself a black velvet, which is a type of black and tan made with hard cider (Redbones has Original Sin hard cider, which isn’t as sweet and dark as Magner’s). For my first course, I got their catfish fingers, buffalo shrimp, and fried okra. The catfish fingers were a fairly conventional approach. They were simply breaded, fried, and served with tartar sauce.

The most I can say about them is that they were very fresh and flaky with a bit of a kick in the breading. The okra was also somewhat uninteresting. It’s a generous plate served chopped up, lightly floured, fried, and with salsa. The salsa was kind of goopy and not very fresh but the okra was crisp. I would suggest this appetizer to a person who likes a big old plate of lima beans. My last appetizer, the buffalo shrimp, was the true highlight of my first course. The baby shrimp are floured and fried and then soaked with a healthy dosage of spicy buffalo sauce. I could have eaten about a hundred of them and that’s my only complaint, the serving was too small.

If anyone is interested in sharing this appetizer with more than two people, get two servings, there’s only about six or seven on the plate. For my main course I decided to forego the popular Redbones choice of pulled pork (I heard it was excellent) and get right down to the nitty-gritty with a rack of Texas style ribs. Redbones offers three types of barbecue sauce: mild, hot, sweet, and vinegar.

I went for the sweet barbecue sauce. It’s thick and dark, with a rich molasses flavor. I had a tender moment with my ribs; they were so succulent and juicy. The meat fairly fell off the bone. All entrees at Redbones are served with black-eyed peas and cole slaw. They’re pretty standard as far as beans and slaw go.

The most I can say for them is that they had a Cajun punch. I, also, sampled the pork spare ribs. They too were very tender, but they are leaner than the beef ribs. If you want a healthier rack definitely go for the “other white meat.” However, I got to say that if you’re looking for nutrition, Redbones isn’t exactly the right place. Although, I did see a veggie burger somewhere on the menu.

Redbones offers food for the wild at heart and it tastes great. I was beyond stuffed when I finished my gargantuan entrée, but I knew that you can’t be a good critic unless you have dessert (I also really, really like dessert). All desserts are made on the premises at Redbones by their talented kitchen staff. I opted for the pecan pie (a favorite there) and their sweet potato pie (okay, maybe I overdid it a little). The pecan pie is made in the true Southern style, heavily laden with molasses. It’s buttery and very sweet with an excellent flaky crust.

The sweet potato pie is creamy and spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg. The sweet potato was good but not nearly as tasty as the pecan. Also, I must add for you coffee lovers out there, Redbones has an excellent cup of joe, which might be exactly what one needs after eating so much red meat! Redbones has become a staple in Somerville and in the surrounding Boston area for its authentic down home food. With daily blue plate specials and family style course selections, it’s also a very affordable dining excursion.

So, step back into the carefree days of summer and have some barbeque in the bustling, fun environment that is Redbones. It may not be good for the body but it is good for the soul. Entrees range from $7.99-$17.99 Redbones is located at 55 Chester St. in Davis Square, Somerville. They also offer catering and private parties. For reservations or questions, please call (617)628-2200 or email at [email protected]. Lunch is served from 11:30. Dinner begins at 4:30-10:30 Sunday through Thursday and until 11:30 Fridays and Saturdays.