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The Mass Media

The Mass Media

The Mass Media

Eating With V: Bowled Over

Located in Boston’s Back Bay on the corner of Dalton Street and Scotia Street (next to Hyne’s Convention Center) stands The Deville Lounge and Kings Bowling Alley. If you guys remember as far back as three years ago this is where the old Sherry Movie Theater was. But its no theater anymore, it’s a damn good restaurant. However, the Deville plays up the movie theater schtick with an old Hollywood-style decor and intimate lighting that sets one back to those golden days when a highball was a highball and diamonds were still a girl’s best friend. The atmosphere is not at all ostentatious, it has a down home vibe of ease and comfort. Comfort is the key word for the cuisine in the Deville, also. I started off sampling a few appetizers. The butternut squash soup is a delicious first course with a pleasant combination of flavors hinting of granny smith apples and a touch of maple syrup. It has a very subtle spiciness to it that adds to the warmth of the soup all together and is served with breaded fried apples that are a great compliment to the soup’s hominess. I then tried the sweet potato and chicken ravioli. The ravioli are a delicate blend of puréed sweet potatoes, chicken, bacon, parsley, and chipotle chilies, which are then tossed with butter, garlic, and Swiss chard. They are topped with a flavorful chicken jus. The ravioli have a simple sophistication to them that adds to the harmony of the menu. I also sampled the chili-rubbed skirt steak appetizer. The marinade is excellent with flavors such as annatto seed, garlic, and cilantro, giving it a southwestern flair that compliments the menu’s theme of warmth. It is served with salsa, sour cream, lime, and cheese quesadillas. Lastly, I had the duck spring rolls. These were my favorite, they’re awesome. Shredded duck meat, bok choy, ginger, garlic, scallion, and shiitake mushrooms go into these little pieces of heaven which are then drizzled with a sweet soy sauce; as Homer Simpson would say, “Mmmm . . .. duck.” Moving on to the second course, I had the pan seared scallops with butternut squash. The scallops were very fresh, drizzled with balsamic vinegar, and served on a bed of smooth puréed sweet potatoes with roasted cauliflower and potatoes. They are an excellent combination of smoky and sweet flavors, with a little punch accented by the balsamic vinegar. Oh, but I didn’t stop there. I also, tried the grilled salmon fillet with pumpkin tamales and lobster mole (mole is a Mexican sauce). This entrée is boasted to be one of the highlights of the Deville menu and rightfully so. The salmon is marinated with cilantro, lime, and scallion and then grilled to perfection. It is then placed upon a spicy lobster mole that has a touch of cumin. The salmon is served with ground corn and pumpkin tamales, which are great to sop up the mole. The entrées I sampled were a wonderful extension to the appetizers. The theme was autumnal comfort food with an interesting southwestern style. At this point I was willing to send for a stretcher to carry me out of the place but I really wanted dessert, so I ordered up the warm, without being too sweet, cinnamon waffles with apple cherry compote and vanilla ice cream, which was great way to end my meal..They were spicy and rich. After such an awesome dinner I wanted to give my compliments to the chef and pick his brain a little about his inspired menu. While speaking to him I learned that Master Chef Art Welch has had a life-long passion for cooking and it really comes through in his food. His aim is to offer up simple, clean tasting food that has a focus on seasonal freshness and consistency.

“Too many places don’t do that. It’s important to make sure that people always have the same excellent meal.” Well, I have to say, Mr. Welch, thank God for you. The Deville Lounge is a great neighborhood place that offers up inexpensive cuisine (menu items range from $8- $13) and tasty cocktails with friendly, accommodating service in a fun environment and should be anyone’s next stop for a wonderful dining experience.